27 januari 2013

My own DB challenge: Gevulde Speculaas

(Nederlandse tekst in aparte blogpost. Klik hier.)

Ever since I became member of the Daring Bakers, in April 2008, I had one wish: to host a challenge myself, one day. And that is what happened to me, this month! I am a very Happy Baker :-)

I made a gallery of all the beautiful creations of my fellow bakers, visit it here. You will see that this very Dutch recipe has spread around the world, from Mauritius to Canada, from Australia to France, and from Jordania to Czechia.

And this is how my challenge was presented to my fellow Daring Bakers:

Hello! My name is Francijn from Koken in de Brouwerij, and I'm proud to be a Dutch Daring Baker since April 2008. I made my first cake for my own twentieth birthday, using my very first cookbook. And since then I am a devoted baker, and my slogan is “I can make that myself”. I love to bake things that other people buy. 

This month we're going to make a traditional Dutch pastry: gevulde speculaas (stuffed speculaas). It is not hard to make, it doesn't take a lot of time, but it is delicious, beautiful and very traditional. And everyone I know buys it instead of baking. 

Recipe source: Dutch culture

Blog-checking lines: Francijn of Koken in de Brouwerij was our January 2013 Daring Bakers’ Hostess and she challenged us to make the traditional Dutch pastry, Gevulde Speculaas from scratch! That includes making our own spice mix, almond paste and dough! Delicious!

Notes: You can choose to make this recipe in one day. But to enjoy the full flavor you could take a few days. Make the almond paste and speculaas dough, put both in the refrigerator and wait a few days before assembling the stuffed speculaas. Make sure to read the notes about eggs I made in the almond paste recipe. Work hygienically. Storage instructions are included with each part of the recipe.

Preparation times:
Making the almond paste: 10-20 minutes
Making the speculaas dough: 10-20 minutes
Waiting: 2 hours or a few days (your choice)
Assembling: 30 minutes
Baking: 40 minutes.
Cooling: a few hours.

Equipment required:
rolling pin
food processor (to grind the almonds)
shallow baking pan, 8x10 inch (20x26 cm) or round with a 10 inch (26 cm) diameter

Let us start with a little history, about the Netherlands and spices.
Until 1800 cloves, mace and nutmeg are exclusively found on the Maluku Islands, in the East Indian Archipelago. That's why these islands are called “the spice islands”. To make one's fortune in Europe through the spice trade, one needed a monopoly on the European trade. Since 1500 the Portuguese owned that monopoly.
The Republic of the Seven United Netherlands, too, wanted to get rich from the spice trade, and established the Dutch East India Company around 1600, to join forces. Since 1660 the monopoly on spice trade was firmly in Dutch hands. In the Dutch Golden Age, roughly the 17th century, the republic got rich through this trade, and flourished like never before, economically, artistically and scientifically. In many Dutch cities the heritage of this century is still visible. Sadly, this wealth must be considered in the light of war and repression. The Dutch used much violence and oppressed people to establish and defend their monopoly.
Only after World War II Dutch India became independent from the Netherlands. Until that moment the trade of spices, coffee, rubber, tobacco, opium, sugar, indigo and tea from Dutch India contributed significantly to the Dutch economy.
In light of this historical involvement of the Netherlands in the spice trade, the contents of my kitchen cupboard are not surprising. Anise seeds, cayenne pepper, chili pepper, lemon grass, mace, ginger, cinnamon, cardamom, curry powder, cumin, coriander seeds, cloves, galangal, mustard seed, nutmeg, paprika, allspice, saffron, vanilla, fennel, white pepper, black pepper. And that's without the long list of herbs.

Speculaas spices
When spices had become commonly available in the 17th century, bakers' guilds began to make their secret spice mixtures. A mixture that gloriously survived the ages is “speculaaskruiden” (speculaas spices). Speculaaskruiden contain at least cinnamon, cloves, mace and ginger, and these spices to taste: pepper, cardamom, coriander, anise seeds and nutmeg.
The smell of speculaaskruiden is overwhelming, especially when you take the trouble to mix them yourself. The deliciously warm and woody aroma is a perfect fit for the chilly Dutch winter months.
From the golden age onward, this spice mixture was used to bake a crisp, buttery biscuit: speculaas. For centuries it remained a luxury item, baked only in the holiday season, and often given as a present. Sometimes bakers made the dough three months in advance so that the flavor would permeate the dough.
Ever since the 15th century, the 6th of December has been celebrated as the nameday of St. Nicholas, combined with an exchange of gifts on the evening before. But in the age of the Dutch East India Company St. Nicholas became associated with speculaas. And that is not so strange, as St. Nicholas was the patron saint of sailors as well as many bakers' guilds.
In the course of time many recipes using speculaas spices have been created. Speculaasjes (“speculaas cookies / windmill cookies”) which are shaped using a wooden mold, speculaasbrokken (“speculaas chunks”), kruidnoten (“spiced nuts / miniature spiced cookies”), gevulde speculaas (“speculaas stuffed with almond paste”). And that is not the end of it: speculaas spices can be used in custards, cakes, muffins, bread toppings, cheesecake crusts and so on.

Recipe Speculaas Spices
Speculaas spices can be bought in a store. But it's more fun to make your own mixture, so that you can adjust the flavor. Here is a representative recipe from the extensive Dutch tradition.

cinnamon 40 to 60 % of the total amount
ground cloves 1 or 2 parts
mace ½ or 1 part
ginger ½ or 1 part
white pepper ½ or 1 part
cardamom ½ or 1 part
coriander ½ or 1 part
anise ½ or 1 part
nutmeg 1 or 2 parts

A convenient way to mix the spices is as follows:
Take at least 1 or 2 teaspoons of ground cloves, ½ or 1 teaspoon of mace and ½ or 1 teaspoon of ginger.
Add to taste ½ or 1 teaspoon of white pepper, ½ or 1 teaspoon of cardamom, ½ or 1 teaspoon of coriander, ½ or 1 teaspoon of anise, and 1 or 2 teaspoons of nutmeg.
Measure or weigh the amount of spices you have now, and add an equal amount of cinnamon. 

This method yields at least 4 and at most 18 teaspoons of spices, so if you plan to mix just a few spices, use bigger or more spoons to get a reasonable amount.
Take your time to smell the ingredients individually before you decide how much to add. And remember the proportions, that will make adjustments easier next time.
Store the spices airtight, dry and dark, they will not spoil for a long time.

Recipe Almond Paste
As we are going to make stuffed speculaas, we will need almond paste. You can buy it in a store, but homemade almond paste tastes better.

7/8 cup (210 ml)(125 gm)(4½ oz) raw almonds (or 1-1/3 cups (320 ml)(125 gm) (4½ oz) ground almonds)
5/8 cup (150 ml) (125 grams) (4½ oz) granulated sugar
1 large egg
1 teaspoon (5 ml) (3 gm) lemon zest

If the raw almonds still have their brown skins, remove them as follows. Bring water to a boil, add the almonds, cook them for one minute, drain immediately and let cool for a few minutes. Rub them between your fingers to remove the skins. 

Grind the almonds for one or two minutes in a food processor, until you see nothing but very small pieces. (Or skip this step if you use ground almonds.)
Add the sugar, and grind for another one or two minutes. It must be very fine after this step.
Add the egg and let the food processor combine it - if it is powerful enough. Otherwise you will have to combine it with your fingers.
Store the almond paste in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Although the flavor gets better as days pass by, it is not wise to store the paste for too long, as it contains a raw egg. For the same reason you should not eat the paste unbaked. 

To be safe, you could choose one of these options:
- use egg powder and water to replace the egg (follow instructions with the powder)
- use 50 ml of an other liquid, like lemon juice (in that case, leave the zest out)
- add the egg just before you are going to bake the pastry
The paste can also be kept in the freezer.

Recipe Speculaas Dough
1¾ cups (250 gm) (9 oz) all purpose (plain) flour
1 teaspoon (5 ml) (5 gm) baking powder
¾ cup (150 grams) (5-1/3 oz) brown sugar, firmly packed
a pinch salt
2 tablespoons (30 ml) (15 gm) (½ oz) speculaas spices
3/4 cup (1½ stick) (175 gm) (6 oz) unsalted butter

Put flour, baking powder, sugar, salt and spices in a bowl.
Cut the butter in dices and add.
Knead until smooth.
Feel free to add a little milk if the dough is too dry.
Wrap in clingfoil and put in the refrigerator for two hours.
You can choose to make the dough a few days in advance, just like the almond paste, that will benefit the flavor. Freezing is no problem.

Assembling and baking the Gevulde Speculaas
speculaas dough
almond paste
whole almonds without skins for decoration
1 large egg
shallow baking pan, 8x10 inch (20x26 cm) or, round with of diameter 10 inch (26 cm)

1. Grease the pan.
2. Preheat the oven to moderate 350°F/180°C/gas 4
3. Divide the dough into two portions.
4. Roll out both portions on a lightly floured surface, until they are exactly as big as the baking pan.

5. Put one of the layers in the pan and press it lightly to fill the bottom.
6. Lightly beat the egg with a teaspoon cold water.
7. Smear 1/3 of the egg over the dough in the pan.
8. Roll out the almond paste between two sheets of clingfoil, until it is exactly as big as the pan, and put it on the dough in the pan. (If you chose to make the paste soft, you can smear the paste instead of rolling it.)
9. Press the paste lightly down to fit in the pan, and smear the next 1/3 of the egg over it.
10. Now put the second layer of dough on top of the paste, press it lightly, and make as smooth as possible.
11. Smear the last 1/3 of the egg over the dough.
12. Decorate the pastry with the almonds.

13. Bake for 40 minutes in the preheated oven.
14. Let cool completely in the pan, then cut it in portions as you like. 

15. If you wrap the stuffed speculaas in clingfoil, after it has cooled completely, you can store it a few days at room temperature. Freezing is possible, but fresh speculaas tastes better.

And all these below are links to inspiring pictures. Have fun :-)


34 opmerkingen:

Cakelaw zei

Francijn, thanks for providing us with this challenge. I have never tasted Gevulde Speculaas before (or even heard if it) and I enjoyed it so much. It was absolutely delicious, and would definitely make this treat again.

Cakelaw zei

Francijn, thanks for providing us with this challenage. I have never previouslyheard of or tasted Gevulde Speculaas, and I loved it. I would definitely make this again.

Todd M zei

Really enjoyed the challenge. I am eating a piece right now and it is wonderful. Was fun making the spice mixture and it tasted fantastic. SO what is your new wish now that you have fulfilled this one :)

Julie zei

I'm so in love with this recipe! Thanks for choosing it for this month's Daring Bakers challenge--I'm going to put a big star on it in my recipe file. I love the look of yours, too--almonds are such beautiful decorations!

Unknown zei

Thanks Francijn! Loved this recipe!

Unknown zei

Dear Francijn! Thank you so much for this really delicious recipe. I never heard of it before and I would really have been pity to never have ate this heavenly bites! Thank you!
Here is my try: http://sinnesfreuden.blogspot.de/2013/01/gevulde-speculaas-gefullte-spekulatius.html
Greetings from Germany!

Anoniem zei

Such a wonderful challenge, Francijn! Thanks so much for being a great host. :)

Cher Rockwell zei

Thank you for such a lovely challenge. It was such fun to bake along - especially making the spice mix. Like so many others, this was a new treat for me!

Anoniem zei

Francijn, thank you for a wonderful challenge. I enjoyed making all the components- and of course, eating the finished product!
Your pastry looks wonderful!

Aparna zei

We love Speculoos/ Speculaas so this was something we really enjoyed.
Thanks for picking a great recipe and hosting the challenge.

shelley c. zei

Thank you so much for being such a wonderful, encouraging, helpful host for this delicious challenge! Wonderful choice and a wonderful hostess.

Rebecca zei

Thanks for a wonderful challenge! We really enjoyed this recipe. It will be one of the DB challenges that remains in our repertoire!

Bourbonnatrix zei

Thanks for the challenge Francijn! I wish I had frozen some to snack on while reading DB posts, but it disappeared too quickly!

Isabelle Lambert zei

merci beaucoup Francijn pour le défi, c'est un dessert fantastique. Nous l'avons beaucoup apprécié :)

Korena zei

That you for being such a great host this month Francijn, and for sharing this awesome recipe with us! I look forward to making gevulde speculaas again and again! :)

Swati Raman Garg zei

Iam so happy to start my daring bakers challenge with your recipe Francijn... thanks for introducing us to this recipe, the family loved it, and am sure gonig to make it again.

Lorraine @ Not Quite Nigella zei

Thanks for such a fun challenge and one that fits into busy lives too (I liked that the two parts could be done ahead of time).

Kristin zei

Dear Francijn, thank you for the delicious recipe challenge. I am German and didn't know about this beautiful cake but was very delighted to find that it combines two of my favourite sweet things: spiced dough (speculaas or lebkuchen) and frangipane (marzipan). I love it!

kouky zei

Merci merci beaucoup Francijn pour cette délicieuse recette!!c'est vraiment une très belle découverte de la pâtisserie hollandaise!
merci aussi pour ton passage et pour ton gentil commentaire!!

Terezka zei

Dear Francijn, thank you for the challenge, I enjoyed it very much. Terezie from Czech republic.

Terezka zei

Francijn, thank you very much for your challenge, it was my very first within The Daring Bakers. I enjoyed it a lot.

Terezie from Czech republic

Anoniem zei

Kudos for introducing me to this very fragrant dutch pastry and making it possible to personalise my own spice mix. Lots of love from Mauritius!!

Renee zei

Francijn, Thank you SO much for the challenge! My husband is half Dutch and he LOVED the Gevulde Speculaas (more than Speculaasjes, and that is saying a lot!) Tonight he will take a piece to his 94-year-old Dutch grandfather. I am sure he will be absolutely delighted. Thanks again!

Ansh| Spiceroots zei

Thank you for this wonderful challenge. I loved it.

tartasacher zei

Hello Francijn

Thank you for this wonderful challenge and yours words in my blog. The gevulde speculaas
is very good. I maked small, one everyone

Lisa Del Villardo zei

Thaaaanks a lot for this challenge!! I've never heard of this cake before you brought here to the Daring Bakers.
Please, please, give us more delicious recipes like this one !!

Samantha zei

My cousin-in-law's mother makes these and they are SO good. I'm glad I have a recipe now that I can try out!! Thanks for posting.

liana zei

Thank you for the wonderful recipe, I loved this challenge!

Sawsan@chef in disguise zei

Thank you Francijn for the wonderful challenge! I really enjoyed every part of it. From making the spice mix till the end baked beautiful speculaas.
You were an amazing hostess and you chose a wonderful recipe

Ana M. Adserías zei

You did a great job hosting the challenge. It's a pity that I joined late so couldn't participate.

Rosy zei

Hi Francijn, I want to thank you personally on your blog for the interesting recipe you chose for the January 2013 Daring Bakers Challange.

The Gevulde Speculaas was delicious, your instructions clear and detailed.


Anoniem zei

Franjcine, thank you so much for this amazing recipe, the flavor was spectacular. Finally my oven was fixed and I could try it.

Kingdom for a cake zei

Francijn, I joined Daring bakers in May this year and didn't have a chance to complete your challenge. After I visited Amsterdam few months ago I fell in love with your country and your food. Just wanted to let you know that I just posted Gevulde Speculaas following your recipe, which is excellent Thank you very much! Jelena

Unknown zei

Francijn, I joined Daring bakers in May this year and didn't have a chance to complete your challenge. After I visited Amsterdam few months ago I fell in love with your country and your food. Just wanted to let you know that I just posted Gevulde Speculaas following your recipe, which is excellent Thank you very much! Jelena